Humanizing Chefs: Jordan Anthony-Brown
Name → Jordan Anthony-Brown
Where do you cook? → I’m the Chef and Owner of The Aperture, opening in Fall 2023 at Paramount Square in Walnut Hills.
Where are you from originally? → I’m originally from right here in Cincinnati, but I was gone for almost 13 years between college, graduate
school, and then living in Washington D.C. for nearly nine years. I moved back in mid-2018, but it feels as though it was much more recent
than that, probably because of the surreal effect the pandemic had on the passing of time.
Favorite Food(s) → I have a strong affinity for foods that are rooted in tradition, and require immense training, discipline, and attention.
Ramen, BBQ (especially Texas BBQ), sushi, charcuterie and salumi, things like that (there are obviously many, many more). In an era where our
time and attention are constantly being diverted and pulled in different directions, there’s something really amazing about someone being
singularly focused on one area of discipline. Tacos and pasta would fall into that category; I could eat both of those every day for the rest of my
life and I’d have zero complaints.
Favorite Chef(s) → Michael Solomonov, Jeremy Fox, Missy Robbins, Gavin Kaysen, Corey Lee, Enrique Olvera, Josh Niland, Jody Williams,
Rita Sodi, Stefano Secchi, Justin Pichetrungsi, Alon Shaya, Ron McKinlay. And my friend and mentor, Seth Wells.
Favorite Cincy Restaurant(s) (Past or Present) → Adeep India, Sacred Beast, Taqueria Mercado, Mochiko, La Mexicana, St. Francis Apizza, Brown
Bear Bakery, El Camino.
Favorite Food Memory or Meal → There are many, some of which are frankly a little too close to my heart to share. But a great one was in New
Orleans. Before I moved from DC back to Cincinnati, I took a 31-day solo road trip around the country. New Orleans was the second stop
after Savannah, and I made a reservation at Commander’s Palace, which is an absolute institution in New Orleans (and America), now 130 years
old. Jacket required, opulent but intimate, a great mix of old school service and pure southern hospitality; the type of place where they make
you feel like a million bucks even when you’re just a solo kid from Ohio just passing through. Obviously incredible food — French technique
applied to the Creole tradition. And of course the turtle soup, which they’re famous for.
I first knew I wanted to be a chef when → As strange as it sounds, probably about a year after my dad passed away. I was working in the corporate
world at the time and as the fog of grief started to lift, I realized I was never going to be happy or fulfilled sitting at a desk (though ironically
the process of developing and building a restaurant involves a lot of, well, sitting at a desk). I had spent a year and change in kitchens before
my corporate stint, so I decided to return to the cooking path. And obviously, I haven’t looked back since.
If I weren’t a chef, I would be → It’s hard to say — I was very, very close to going to law school, so probably a lawyer. But if I had my choice, a
writer of some sort — maybe a screenwriter or film critic/historian.
My first job was → My teenage years tend to blend together, but I think it was as a busser at the Red Lobster on Montgomery Road near
Kenwood Mall. I hate a lot of Cheddar Bay biscuits. And I mean a lot.
Why I love my job, in three words → Making people happy.
If I could have dinner with anyone, past or present, it would be → My grandfather, father, and my son. Both my grandfather and father passed on
long before my son was born, and I can’t imagine the love, stories, and energy that would come from four generations sharing a meal together.
My favorite book is → If I was absolutely forced to choose one, To Kill a Mockingbird. But a few others are Invisible Man, 1984 (now an eerily
prescient read), On the Road, Brave New World (also prescient), The Road, Between the World and Me. Frankenstein is one that’s grown on
me, along with a better understanding of its themes. Honestly quite a few of those classics are enjoyable reads and good food for thought, we
just probably have an aversion to them because we were “mandated” to read them in school, and teenagers generally don’t like being told what
to do. Truthfully I trend more towards non-fiction and short stories (Carver, Baldwin, Murakami, Hemingway) because they work well with
my somewhat unpredictable schedule — easier to pick up and put down as needed. Also I’d be lying if I said the Harry Potter series wasn’t
immensely important to me.
Favorite thing to cook after a busy service → I’m not sure many chefs or cooks would say there’s a “favorite” thing to cook after getting rocked on aSaturday night; it’s more a function of necessity at that point. But I’m always good for just pasta with pomodoro sauce, probably a ton of chili
flakes or Calabrian chili, and Parmesan. I pretty much have all of those items on hand at all times, and if I don’t something went wrong. Or
just a good cold cut sandwich, especially in the warmer months.
Favorite Movie(s) → Movies are really important to me for a host of reasons, and have only grown in their importance as I’ve gotten older, so
this is a tough question. But I’ll take the Letterbox approach and do a top four: The Shawshank Redemption, Boogie Nights, True Romance,
The Shining.
Favorite TV show(s) → The streaming era has made TV difficult for me given my schedule; if I fall behind on a show I usually can’t catch up
before it gets spoiled in some way, or I just lose interest. I have a vague, anachronistic desire for appointment television. But to name a few of
my all-timers…The Wire, The Sopranos, Peaky Blinders, Billions, Atlanta, True Detective (S1 and S3), Fargo (S1 and S2), Succession, Veep. I’ve
also always enjoyed SNL, especially learning about its history and massively understated cultural footprint.
Favorite Song(s) → Virtually an impossible question, but to name a few: Pursuit of Happiness (Cudi), SpottieOttieDopaliscious (OutKast), Fear
(Kendrick), Solo, White Ferrari (Frank Ocean), This Must Be the Place (Talking Heads), Retrograde (James Blake), Don’t Stop Me Now
(Queen), Hustler Musik (Wayne), Little Red Corvette (Prince)
Favorite Band or Musician → Can’t just do one here — Marvin Gaye, Kendrick Lamar, Queen, Adele, Drake (only before 2013), Mac Miller, Frank
Ocean, Prince, A Tribe Called Quest, OutKast, J. Cole, Tyler the Creator
Favorite Place to travel → New Orleans. The amount of culture, tradition, storytelling, and hospitality there is so immersive you sometimes feel
like you’re in a different world, in the best way possible. And obviously the food is off the charts good.
Favorite Hobby(s) → Film photography and writing; two very good ways for me to be reflective and situate myself in the present. Also, playing
with my son, but I don’t really consider that a hobby.
Favorite Quote → “Go placidly amid the noise and the haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.” (Max Ehrmann, “Desiderata”)
Biggest pet peeve → Proudly wearing a badge of apathy and misanthropy. I just don’t understand it. And it’s extremely detrimental in an
environment that is almost entirely dependent on mutual respect, teamwork, and communication.
Your motivational quote for other cooks/chefs → “Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.” (Samuel Beckett,
“Worstward Ho”)
My advice to future culinary pros → (1) Find your “why” — your reasons for wanting to be in this world. While I understand that many people
fall into cooking inadvertently or do it temporarily, it’s too challenging of a job and lifestyle to do passively. Do your best to find your personal
reasons why you want to be in the kitchen. It will help you grow and develop with a sense of purpose. (2) Don’t be afraid to explore different
culinary career paths, especially alternative or non-traditional ones. There are many opportunities out there that don’t involve grinding it out
on the line, and countless people out there that need to be cooked for and fed with care. (3) Take care of yourself — plain and simple.